Hats off to the Queen’s Milliner

A fascinating collection of items with a heady royal connection is to be sold in Chilcotts Auctioneers March sale.

Kate Day was making hats for Queen Elizabeth even before her coronation and continued afterwards, known as the ‘Queen’s Milliner’. Her designs were pivotal to Elizabeth’s early, elegant style and were seen at many events and royal visits. She was the only milliner to receive a Royal Warrant in the young Queen’s first year.

Kate was one of three milliners whose creations were worn during the royal visit to Australia in 1954. A news report in the Sydney Morning Herald about the dressmakers and milliners appointed to make clothes for the Queen’s visit said of Kate: “It is her love of glowing colours which she shares with the Queen and her gift for making hats superbly comfortable that have led to her success.”

Amongst the auction items is a beautiful circular gold brooch, the centre monogrammed E II R, surmounted with an enamelled crown and decorated with a pearl set ribboned bow. A gift to thank Kate for her stunning designs, it is still in its original red leather presentation case from the Crown Jewellers of the time, Collingwood.

Kate worked out of a discreet studio in Mount Street, Mayfair; while she did not have a shop front, she did have the Royal Warrant sign and another, stating By Appointment to HM Queen Elizabeth II, Milliners in gold lettering, which were displayed inside the premises. Both are included in the collection.

Another treasured item is a first edition autobiography of the Queen’s Dressmaker Norman Hartnell. The book, Silver and Gold, has a stylishly written dedication in black ink to ‘…my “oldest’ girlfriend – the seductress mentioned on Page 16, with gratitude and love from Norman Hartnell 1955’. This is a reference to their being friends during their teenage years; Kate had worked for Hartnell prior to setting up her own business.

As well as Queen Elizabeth, Kate also made hats for celebrities and models of the day. Several bound albums contain a multitude of press clippings of her designs in adverts and fashion shows, plus smart invitations to various royal events.

Together, these items offer a charming insight into a very glamorous era. It is the first time they have been auctioned and they will be sold together as one lot, with an estimate of £600 to 800 plus Buyers’ Premium.

The collection can be viewed at the Dolphin Saleroom in Honiton High Street from March 8 to 10 and the sale starts at 10am on March 11.